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I introduced my self in the introductions forum and gave some background. I have been helping a friend that paints vehicles on the side for extra cash.(full time fireman) and have gained and intrest from him in paint care. I am very heavily considering starting to do buffing/wetsanding on the side for extra cash. I have some experience in using a 3" rotary buffer working with him but have not used a larger rotary or DA at all. What are you guys thoughts on this idea? Ever heard of anyone doing this type of thing or will I have to go full scale detail to get any buisness?
I'm not sure exactly what end of the business you are looking at going into. The wetsanding and paint finishing business or the appearance restoration (detailing) business. From what I know about wetsanding, you definitely will want something with a little more muscle than anyone I know to polish the paint afterwards. I don't know a lot of guys who do that kind of thing with a DA, so a rotary would be my recomendation. With that being said, I've been in the detailing industry for ten years and have yet to use a rotary for daily detailing work. I stick with DA polishers because they are fool proof and I'm still a little chicken to go up a level.
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Faster isn't better. BETTER is better no matter how long it takes.
I am looking more into the appearance restoration as I don't want to cut into my friends buisness but I really have no intrest in detailing per say as far as interior. More targeting swirls, scratchs, waterspots, and overspray removal on the painted and glass surfaces.
Where the reference to wetsanding came from is someone I know has bad paint overspray from work and I don't know if just buffing will remove it.
Most people who are interested in repairing the appearance of their paint are going to also want you to take care of other things. I wish I had a graphic of my scale of car care... Basically the first little bit is just car washing. The kind of thing that guys with tanks on trailers do at car lots. They just spray things down and dry them and move on to the next one. The middle two thirds of the scale is detailing. The last part is the touch up paint and PDR type things. I work in that middle two thirds dealing with restoring the paint by polishing out swirls and oxidation as well as waxing the paint, restoring and protecting the trim, wheels, tires, glass, and interior. Engine detailing is the only part of this whole process that I've had success selling as a seperate service. I've never had someone want just the paint polished with nothing else done. You can jup into the beginning or the end of this scale, but it is really hard to find clients when you jump into the middle and only offer a small part of what is typically done.
I'm not saying that you can't make it work, but chances are that you are also going to have to have an understanding of sealants, waxes, glazes, and all the things that make paint shine as well as how to operate a polisher with the right polishes. You are also going to need to understand proper washing techniques and some knowledge of clay. If you are washing the vehicle then you'll need to at least detail the glass afterwards and I would dress the tires as well. It just snowballs from there because then you have to detail the wheels too and that all makes undetailed trim stand out, so that has to be done too. lol It is just really hard to stop with paint polishing and have satisfied customers.
~ ~ www.OCDetails.com ~ ~
Faster isn't better. BETTER is better no matter how long it takes.
Thats exactly what I am thinking about but in all honesty I really don't mind working on the exterior of a vehicle but I hate interiors. Here is my ideal sit..
Wash Vehicle
Clay Vehicle
Buff Paint target rough areas
Remove hard water spots from windows
Wax/finish paint
Detail Wheels, trim
Clean windows
Am I missing something? I mean the thing is I know several people who want their vehicles buffed to remove swirls or paint overspray but don't want to pay 1k to get it done at a body shop. Oh and keep in mind we are talking really small scale like two or three cars a month at most...
you are also going to have to have an understanding of sealants, waxes, glazes, and all the things that make paint shine as well as how to operate a polisher with the right polishes. You are also going to need to understand proper washing techniques and some knowledge of clay.
Thats exactly what I am thinking about but in all honesty I really don't mind working on the exterior of a vehicle but I hate interiors. Here is my ideal sit..
Wash Vehicle
Clay Vehicle
Buff Paint target rough areas
Remove hard water spots from windows
Wax/finish paint
Detail Wheels, trim
Clean windows
Am I missing something? I mean the thing is I know several people who want their vehicles buffed to remove swirls or paint overspray but don't want to pay 1k to get it done at a body shop. Oh and keep in mind we are talking really small scale like two or three cars a month at most...
In the years that I have detailed cars I have had very few people that just want the outside or the inside only done...IMO if you want to have success in this industry your going to need and do the full package....that's my take
I agree with Dave on this one, most people want the complete package...although people who tend to get one done over the other I have found that if they choose one they choose the exterior...I think even a non detailer can vacuum the interior add dressing and scrub their carpets, while they may miss the tiny details we all find they for the most part get the bulk done...
However the exterior, if you really want it done right requires a good knowledge of paint, product and process and have the needed tools for the job.
I like beer. On occasion I will even drink a beer to celebrate a major event such as the fall of communism or the fact that our refrigerator is still working.
Alright I guess I will try offering the whole package and see if its something I can stand doing. I already have someone lined up who says I can experiment with his truck. It has horrible overspray. He pretty much offered to buy all the tools if I help him work on it. He already has someone ligned up to paint but wants to try this first. I will be inspecting the truck soon and will get back with you guys for tips suggestions.
Alright I guess I will try offering the whole package and see if its something I can stand doing. I already have someone lined up who says I can experiment with his truck. It has horrible overspray. He pretty much offered to buy all the tools if I help him work on it. He already has someone ligned up to paint but wants to try this first. I will be inspecting the truck soon and will get back with you guys for tips suggestions.
Take a clay bar with you and give that a try on the truck that will tell you quite a bit about the OS and what you need to do
I am with Dave on this one, clay it first then polish, you will find that clay will do alot of the up front work...make sure you have some type of QD to use as a lubricant for the clay...
I like beer. On occasion I will even drink a beer to celebrate a major event such as the fall of communism or the fact that our refrigerator is still working.
Do I have to use QD or can I just use soapy water? I have heard both which one is right? What pads and polishes do you suggest after the claybar?
Soapy water is ok, I have used it, although some have said that it tends to break the bar apart, I have seen it only once with a softer clay, but for the most part its usually ok...
As for the polish that depends on the finish, but water ever you do just start with your most least aggressive combo of product and pad, see what results you get from that and then judge from that if you eed to be more agressive.
I like beer. On occasion I will even drink a beer to celebrate a major event such as the fall of communism or the fact that our refrigerator is still working.
From what I can remember it was pretty abused you have any suggestions on what to start with? I was thinking about starting with an orange CCS pad with ssr1 and if that wasnt good enough go to the orange CCS pad with ssr2.
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