Priming Foam Polishing Pad or Not?

[Wax2aMax]

If you use a pad conditioner, do you need to prime the entire face of a foam polishing pad with product before starting?

Seems like some just apply a few pea size dabs or an X or circle and then start while others prime the pad by working some polish into the entire face of the pad by hand, then add a couple dabs and start? Is pad conditioner recommended?

Either way, the pad eventually gets primed, but how do you start? Thanks.

[Todd@RUPES]

If you use a pad conditioner, do you need to prime the entire face of a foam polishing pad with product before starting?

Seems like some just apply a few pea size dabs or an X or circle and then start while others prime the pad by working some polish into the entire face of the pad by hand, then add a couple dabs and start? Is pad conditioner recommended?

Either way, the pad eventually gets primed, but how do you start? Thanks.

Pad priming has become one of those terms that, as many in the detailing world, has taken on several different meanings, each with different objectives.

If we look as pad priming in the most general sense, it is means to prepare the polishing pad for use. This assumes that the pad is fresh, clean of any residual product, and about to be used for machine polishing.

What are the reasons to prime (prepare) a pad for use?

Prevent dry buffing- For the first couple of seconds a pad is first used (before a film of product has been evenly spread on the paint) the material that makes up the pad (wool, foam, fiber)is in direct contact with the paint. This likely will cause some scouring of the paint`s surface, although this scouring is likely very mild and quickly removed once the polish begins to work on the surface.

So while adding a conditioning spray or spreading product on the face of the pad will prevent this, it is often not a big problem to worry about because it is self-resolving.

Increase cutting action- The more abrasives that are in contact and working against the paint in a given time frame, the greater the polishing power (cut). By priming (preparing) the pad with a layer of fresh abrasives, prior to polishing, the cutting power should be increased.

Increase the quality of the finish- Think of a polishing pad like a piece of ultra ultra fine grit sandpaper. (This is actually fairly close to the truth as the abrasives attach to the pad`s material). Priming the pad with product ensures a thin, even coating of abrasives across the face of the pad, which in turn means that the surface of the pad will be more uniform. This directly relates to leaving a more uniform (higher gloss) paint surface.

Reduce product waste- The idea of priming a pad prior to use by using more product may seem counter productive to saving product but there is more than meets the eye. When you prime the pad with product, you create a `hard barrier` of abrasives that have attached to the polishing pad material. these abrasives will act to slow the absorption of future product into the pad.

If you use a pad conditioner, do you need to prime the entire face of a foam polishing pad with product before starting?

Adding pad conditioner to the pad right before the initial buff is going to prevent dry buffing (some benefit), help prevent pad skip and chatter (which could make buffing more comfortable), help the polish migrate over the face of the pad.

Priming the pad with product by applying a thin even coat of polish over the face, allowing the polish to dry slightly, then removing the excess with a brush or compressed air, will offer the most benefit.

My preference is to use a light mist of pad condition first, then add and spread product over the face of the pad. The conditioner will help the polish spread further and more evenly. Then allow the pad to set for 3 to 5 minutes before use. This reduces the amount of product needed to prime with material.

Seems like some just apply a few pea size dabs or an X or circle and then start while others prime the pad by working some polish into the entire face of the pad by hand, then add a couple dabs and start? Is pad conditioner recommended?

Long before I ever primed a pad, I used to use the normal amount of polish and go to town. So pad priming is not necessary and many people forgo this step and still achieve great results. However pad priming (preparing) is recommended for best results. I never knew I was leaving something on the table, particularly in terms of cutting power, until I started priming the pad.

If you are going to use the normal amount of polish and start polishing then a mist from a pad conditioning agent will definitely increase the initial performance.

Either way, the pad eventually gets primed, but how do you start? Thanks.

Again if you are using the definition of `prime` to prepare the pad for best performance, then the quoted statement is not quite accurate. Eitherway the pad gets saturated would be more correct.

There is no right or wrong answer to your question. Like many things that are detailing related, priming (and the type of priming done) is subject to personal preference.

You can prime the pad by using a pad conditioner, by spreading product over the face of the pad and allowing it to settle, or a combination of both. You can also elect to forego pad priming (prepping) all together. Maybe the best bet is to try the different methods for yourself and see which best suits you.

[Wax2aMax]

Thanks Todd....just was curious what is most common. I always use a little pad conditioner and then sometimes hand "prime" and sometimes not...without the "priming" I`ll do a section pass, then wipe the pad, add a little product and continue. I do not saturate the pad.

As you said...different strokes for different folks. Thanks again.

[Roadrunner STi]

I was wondering if someone could possibly give an example of a product that is a pad conditioner is that you would spray on because I`m not sure exacty what is being referred to. Thanks!!

[embolism]

there are specific pad conditioners (Pinnacle XMT comes to mind) but most people just use their claylube or a QD.

[Flannigan]

I prime pads when I use SMAT compounds/polishes, but not with DAT polishes. Has always worked for me in the past. I never quite understood priming for DAT polishes since you would end up with a bunch of smaller abrasives on the pad that you need to get rid of eventually anyway.

[embolism]

Kinda confused by that statement, Dave

I don`t think the act of spreading them around on the pad would be enough to break them down. In this case it would be a matter of getting the maximum amount of the pad and product working (on a DA) and preventing dry buffing non?

[Flannigan]

Kinda confused by that statement, Dave

I don`t think the act of spreading them around on the pad would be enough to break them down. In this case it would be a matter of getting the maximum amount of the pad and product working (on a DA) and preventing dry buffing non?

I meant they would be broken down after the first buffing cycle. With smat you will have a buch of usually abrasives on the pad stilly just my opinion of course. It works for me, but may not work for others.

I`ve never had a dry buffing issue with not priming a pad when using dat products though.

[ZL1Mark]

Prime with SMAT.

Pad conditioner with DAT.

This is what I do.

[TroyScherer]

I prime pads when I use SMAT compounds/polishes, but not with DAT polishes. Has always worked for me in the past. I never quite understood priming for DAT polishes since you would end up with a bunch of smaller abrasives on the pad that you need to get rid of eventually anyway.

I fully agree here Dave.


SMAT (M105/M205) - Work great with priming the pad as the abrasives don`t break down and thus priming help to fill the face of the pad and thus use less product.

DAT (Menz) - I too just use a Pad conditioner to "prime" the pad as DAT polishes break down and to make sure you are always getting the best cut you need to clean the pad and re-apply the polish for each section.

[Hoytman]

Prime with SMAT.

Pad conditioner with DAT.

This is what I do.

Mark,

What products do you use for each?
My B & S pads came in today Mark...all 18 of them. Can`t wait to try the yellow out. I got 6 yellow, 6 white, 2blk, 2bl, 2rd. Ordered some other products to try as well...OPC, OCW (can`t wait to try that one). Finally, after sending you a pm a long time back about the clay block, I bought two to try out. It`ll be interesting to see if I like them better than clay.


Todd,
Is there really a difference between a pad "primer" and a pad "conditioner"? Seems like I`ve read somewhere that M34 (I bellieve that`s the right number...maybe not) or any quick detailer can be used to prime or condition pads. Is this true?

[Bunky]

When using DAT, I will put down about 2x what I would normally use for panel so like 6 to 8 dabs. If when I spread initially, I may add a dab more. If I like like some pics, the first panel takes forever to break down all the polish.

[Concours.John]

On a similar note it would be nice to have a chart saying which polishes are what. I`m only familiar with what I use. I would be more apt to try another polish if knowing up front what type it is. I`m sure it would help others when choosing products. It would be great knowing the type of abrasives used seeing there is great information on technique such as this and in other write ups.

I know I`ve read some posts and been impressed with the results but not sure what make up of polish or compound was used.