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Thread: Time vs Quality

  1. #1

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    My bug deflector needs some livening up, as its become a flat black sort of color, instead of the shiny blackout color. Is there any way to bring back the shine and transparency like it had when new? Thanks a lot,



    Grant

  2. #2

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    A high speed rotary and lambs wool pad, some lite polish and set the buffer at 1000 rpm and they come out like new, then apply a coat of your sealant and everytime you reapply it to the paint, do the bug deflector.



    Long and hard way, doesn`t really get all the little mars you are seeing is the PC and a foam pad, but will help it.



    Hell, it is "plastic" a cousin of your clear coat, don`t be afraid of it, we do them all the time, also the taillight lens, the head light lens that are plastic, keeps them new! They gets mars just like your clear.
    "Logic dictates I have been at this detailing thing way too many years!":wink1:

  3. #3

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    Thanks Ron!



    I`ve tried regular waxing on it, but that was a while ago with Turtle Wax. Think NuFinish will damage it since it is non-clearcoat? I`ll try the buffer idea if its not dangerous. Thanks,



    Grant

  4. #4

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    Don`t take to heart what some push for and against regarding product. NuFinish liquid won`t damage a clearcoat.



    It will make your reflector look a lot better, but it needs the fine marring polished out of it.



    If you got one of the little 30X magnifers and look at the finish on the reflector you will see what I am talking about.



    That is dullness, it is marring.
    "Logic dictates I have been at this detailing thing way too many years!":wink1:

  5. #5

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    You can easily polish your bug shield with a light

    swirl remover (2000 grit leveler). It`s the same you`d use on paint as a pre-wax cleaner.



    The shields are a bit flimsy, so put one hand behind for bracing, and apply the polish with a foam or terry pad. Wax with the same product you use on the car.

  6. #6

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    Hi Grant, I`ve never tried the high-speed or PC7424 method for bug deflectors because they`re so flimsy. However, I`ve recently had very pleasing results using One Grand`s Plastic Polish. It`s worked better than the Meguiar`s I used to use.

  7. #7

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    I just tried it, and wasnt exactly pleased with the results. Its mostly due to the buffer. The pad was worn, which I did not know until the damage had already been done, but the seam where the fluffy part and the piece that wraps around to hold it on was worn, so it got hold of the bug guard and laid down a few run marks. I got the wax off and hit it up with some Meguiars QD, and that seemed to help a bit. Its a bit better than before, but eventually I`m going to get a guard that covers the fenders also.

  8. #8

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    Time vs Quality

    This thread is for those who perform mobile detailing.

    As I am just starting in the mobile detailing business, I find it very difficult (for me) to finish a complete detail (wash, clay, complete interior, complete exterior - with only minor paint correction) in less than 7 hours. And when finished I still see other areas that I could address but my body says NO!

    On another forum someone started a thread titled "What do like least about detailing". A large majority of the responses were - I wish I had enough time to do a thorough job. I`m looking for help from those with more experience as to what tips or suggestions can you offer that would decrease the amount of time spent on a vehicle yet still perform a quality and thorough job.

    Thanks in advance.

    Doc

  9. #9

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    Hey Doc... I feel your pain! You just can`t do a 10 hour detail in 4 hours!

    The problem I always run into (charging by the hour) is that the customer will tell me what he wants. Then I`ll calculate the number of hours and tell him the price (Let`s say $400). Then he`ll rub his chin and pace for a while and say, "Why don`t you just give me 200 dollars worth!"

    Well that doesn`t get the job done!

    Some ways I cut my time:

    1. ONR wash rather than conventional wash

    2. I work at a rapid stead pace and I don`t stop for anything... I don`t answer the phone, I don`t chat with the customer, nothing.

    3. On larger vehicles I will pressure wash the wheels, tires, wheelwells, door jambs. Saves time over hand washing.

    4. Obviously a rotary saves quite a bit of time over a PC. This is probably the biggest time-saver in the detail process. (I haven`t gone there yet, but it could easily happen.)

    5. Using a hot water extractor will save time over cleaning carpets by hand.

    6. I`ve been known to have my wife help me on the interior. (She does good detail work and works cheap!)

    7. I apply and remove sealant with the PC. Saves valuable minutes.

    That`s not a lot but if you add up all those saved minutes, it saves much time in the end!:wink:

    Good thread.:cornut:
    Bill Luster
    Specializing in Detailing Corvettes....:thumbup:

    You`ve been given one life.
    Think about it.

  10. #10
    TOGWT
    Guest
    As a professional you?ll have to balance ?what the customer is willing to pay for? and provide the best quality job within that framework.

    I`m sure some of the professional detailer can give you some real world pointers as to time savers that don`t compromise quality too much

  11. #11

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    Bill & TOWGT thank you for your input and suggestions.

    Bill your suggestion of using a pressure washer would help me reduce time on large soccer mom buses. I`m hoping Santa Claus will bring me one for Christmas.

    TOWGT you are correct in that I have to learn how to balance ?what the customer is willing to pay for? and provide the best quality job within that framework. Once I get that down I will feel more confident and professional. I`m sure that will come with experience.

    I`m hoping others can add to these valuable time-saving tips.

  12. #12

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    We do not offer correction jobs on-site we have them bring them and drop off. When we do mobile we only offer standard detailing, No clay, no buffing, No extractor, people are fine with it and realize to get more they will have to drop off at our shop as well as PAY more for the service. You just have to find a good balance of price and service that works best in your city for mobile.

    Where are you trying to get going?
    Paul
    Eastside Auto Spa

  13. #13
    imported_Flash Gordon's Avatar
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    Not alot more I can ad other then:

    1)Have all your products topped off

    2)Know exactally where they are(products)

    3)Don`t cross contaimenate towels or pads(you will have to re-do/waste time)

    4)Foam cannon= waste of time also, IMPO

  14. #14

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    What I try to do is evaluate the vehicle first ( i know sometimes time is a factor). It was up to the customer to either have me take the vehicle or do the job there. I started early.....sometimes between 6-7am depending on the condition of the vehicle. We all know what the long work days are, but I felt such an accomplishment once the job was done right. Just a few thoughts.

  15. #15

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    Guess you`d classify me as a newbie semi-pro. My advice would be to learn how to set the customer`s expectations. That was/is one of the most difficult aspects of detailing for money for me.

    Some examples:

    - Yes, it is possible to remove all the swirls.
    - No, my four hour wash, wax, interior vacuum & wipe-down, windows, wheels and trim job will not give you 100% paint correction.
    - I don`t want to be rude, but I really can`t stop and talk.
    - I know it`s Saturday morning, but I have to start at 8:00 am.
    - Payment is expected at the completion of the job.
    - Please check out these existing scratches and dents with me before I start.
    - Carpet and upholstery stains, leather treatment, engine detail, glass polishing, trunk cleaning, etc., cost extra.
    - Do you mind if I use your bathroom if necessary?

    Best of luck, Doc!
    John Henry

 

 
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