Product Comparison: Paint Strippers, CarPro Eraser vs. Gtechniq Panel Wipe

[Todd@RUPES]

Both CarPro and Gtechniq are on the cutting edge of nano-coating/sealant technologies and offer incredible products that offer extreme protection with a long-lasting application.

Both CarPro CQuartz and Getchniq`s range (EXO and C1 Crystal Lacquer) require a "clean" paint surface to be applied to. By clean, I do not mean that it looks shiny with no traces of dirt.... I mean that the surface has be free of not only dirt but also oils, waxes, silicones or any chemicals that could cause interference with the bonding of their products.

CarPro Eraser is CarPro`s paint prep wipe. It features a light dilution of alcohol as well as surfactants (cleaners) that provide some lubricity to the paint`s surface.

Gtechniq Panel Wipe is Getchniq`s paint prep wipe. It is very much like a body shop prep wipe that is used prior to painting surfaces.

Your best bet: If you are applying CarPro CQuartz then I would recommend wiping the surface down with CarPro Eraser First. In the same regard, I would recommend using Gtechniq Panel Wipe if you are looking to apply any of the Gtechniq range. Both products have been tested by their respective manufacturer to provide an optimal bonding surface for their products. Keep in mind that CarPro Eraser freely admits to leaving something behind on the surface that will prevent dust accumulation, which obviously has no effect on the bonding of CQuartz.

In Comparison:

In the real-world, stripping the paint has become common place. The reasons to chemically strip paint are numerous:

• Remove any waxes or sealants quickly
• Remove oils and filling products that could mask paint defects
• Prepare panels for sanding or refinishing
• Prepare panels for painting

CarPro Eraser is an effective paint cleaning/stripping solution: It has a fresh, pleasent scent and easily spreads over the surface. Even more importantly, it has a long dwell time, which means you don`t have to rush to wipe away the residue. (Note: You always want to wipe away solution, not let it air dry on the surface. The goal is too suspend the surface oils/waxes/sealants, then lift them with a soft microfiber towel). CarPro Eraser can leave light streaks behind that are easily buffed away.




Gtechniq Panel Wipe has a strong chemical (paint thinner like) odor and a powerful cleaning action. It wipes easily across the surface (although is slightly more grabby than Eraser) It evaporates quickly and completely leaving a streak-free finish behind.


Cleaning Power: Gtechniq Panel Wipe- Gtechiq Panel Wipe easily removes all residues, sealants, and paint fillers on the first try. CarPro Eraser required two applications to clean some more stubborn filling agents in my test. Also Panel Wipe removed caked on Meguiar`s M105 from the paint with little agitation were as CarPro Eraser required light scrubbing for the same effect.


Ease of Use: CarPro Eraser- This one is close, for different reasons. CarPro Eraser can leave some easy to remove smudges if you don`t buff it completely off while Gtechniq Panel Wipe leaves a streak free shine. However, CarPro Eraser`s longer dwell time makes it easier for begineers to use with out worrying about quickly removing the product.


Lubricity: CarPro Eraser- Eraser spreads much like a quick detail spray and feels slick. It also buffs to a high gloss finish quickly.


Conclusion: I like using CarPro Eraser as a `drying aid` after washing when preparing a finish for polishing. It spreads well and provides good cleaning power to ensure the polishes work correctly. For heavy compounding (most paint compounds can stick to the surface and be difficult to remove) Gtechniq Panel Wipe is extremely effective. It dissolves even the most stubborn residues with little-to-no agitation/scrubbing.

For medium and final polishing, CarPro Eraser quickly cuts through polishing oils, and its long dwell time and excellent lubricity make it ideal for easy of use as well as preventing swirl-marks. For a final wipe, when the paint surface is mostly clean (except perhaps any residues from wash shampoo), Gtechniq Panel Wipe is extremely effective and the quick flash ensures you get a streak-free finish free of any residues.

Ultimately, CarPro Eraser trades a little cleaning power for ease-of-use. Gtechniq delivers a streak free shine (which makes it perfect for following Eraser) and cleans any residues with ease. They are both unique products that share a similar function. While you will be fine with either product, you may find that both serve a purpose in your detailing arsenal.




Additional Reading:

From this thread: http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/...g-filling.html

Filling/Masking

We may have heard the horror stories or perhaps we have experienced this ourselves. We have done everything in our power to polish our paint to a swirl free, high-gloss finish, and we have done everything to ensure those results are true. Perhaps we have wiped the surface with a solvent or rubbing alcohol to inspect the finish. Yet, slowly, over time, circular paint defects return. What causes this? Is it impossible to get a perfect finish? What can we do to prevent it?


What Is Filling

Filling or defect masking is when the paint has an artificial appearance. Swirl marks, haze, and holograms (and other normally visible paint defects) that are still present are temporarily invisible. Drop back is a term used to describe when the paint defects re-appear.

Some products are designed to glaze over paint defects and reduce the defects` appearance. These products can be a pure glaze, a specially designed wax/sealant or the combination of an abrasive polish and paint filling agents. The latter is commonly used in body shops and production detailing environments where quick turn around time is required to maintain profitability. The fact is, that truly correcting paint defects, even with modern technology, is time consuming.

Some ingredients that are used to create a filling effect are:

• some amino functional (cross linking) silicon polymers
• carnauba, bee`s, montan, or other natural occurring wax
• kaolin clay

Unintentional Masking

While some products are designed to mask paint defects and purposely use ingredients to create an artificially level paint appearance, many polishes do not. There are a wide variety of polishes available that are designed to remove paint defects completely while creating a high-gloss finish without the need to mask the defects. However as a result of their application process, ingredients, or reactions with existing products on the paint you can still have some unwanted filling or masking of paint defects.

The ingredients in many polishes, particularly the oils that provide lubrication, can serve to temporarily hide paint defects and make an accurate assessment of the paint condition difficult. These oils are designed to resist abrasion. They must stick to the paint and provide the necessary lubrication needed for paint polishing. If they can remain steadfast against a wool or foam polishing pad that is moving with pressure at 40 mph, a buffing cloth may not remove them completely. Chemically `stripping` or using a paint cleaner to remove these oils can be necessary to avoid drop back.

Some products that are commonly used to remove any oils, waxes, or products that can be used for product filling:

• diluted isopropyl alcohol (15-50% alcohol/water solution)
• mineral spirits
• body-shop pre-paint solvents
• window cleaners (that use isopropyl alcohol
• detergent (grease-removing) soaps (particularly body-shop safe polishes)
• manufactured paint cleaners (CarPro Eraser for example)

Generally, when using a chemical stripping agent the process is the same. Spray a liberal amount of stripping agent onto the paint and agitate with a microfiber cloth. Then immediately wipe the cleaning agent from the surface before it starts to to evaporate (either with the dry/clean side of the microfiber or a second microfiber) to avoid redepositing.

Does Dish Washing Detergent Effectively Strip Paint?”

Yes and no, and not really.... The first factor that will determine how effective dish washing soaps are is how resilient the product they are being used to remove is. Some polishes and glazes, particularly those that are not body shop safe, will have silicones and waxes in them that may be detergent resistant.

Another point to consider is that most dish washing soaps are not designed to rinse completely clean. This may sound strange at first, but many of these soaps are designed to create a thin film on the surface to help sheet water away (avoiding water spots on dishes). The longer the soap is allowed to sit on the surface, the thicker the film deposited, the water beading is (temporarily) diminished. This lack of water beading can lead many to believe to surface has been effectively stripped when the result is actually a factor of additional product being added to the surface. Anything that leaves something behind on the surface is going to achieve the opposite effect. Even all-purpose cleaners can leave some residue on the paint.

Dish washing soaps and all-purpose cleaners can help accelerate the cleaning of stubborn products but they should not be solely relied on to clean the paint. Follow their use with a chemical cleaner if you truly desire a true finish.


Paint Swelling, The Unintentional Filler

Automotive paint is classified as a semi-permeable membrane, like your skin. Some chemicals can penetrate paint easily while other chemicals will stay on the top of the paint. Paint is also elastic, like your skin. This means that paint, like your skin, is constantly changing shape and absorbing (and out gassing) chemicals. As my friend, Jason Rose, from Meguiar`s told me, “100% pure petroleum jelly (Vaseline) will actually make your skin thicker by putting oils into tissue pores. It will also make your skin stretch further by making tissue have more tensile strength and elongation (actual technical terms paint experts use to specify elasticity.)"

As we polish paint we can experience paint swelling due to different causes: 1) Heat 2) Chemical Absorption

Heat- The act of polishing (removing material) requires friction. Heat is a by-product of friction. Paint, like most matter in the known universe will expand when heated and contract when cooled. The warmer it is, the more flexibility it has (thus you may have seen a dent removal guy warm a body panel to reshape a dent and prevent the paint from cracking). The very act of creating the friction necessary to polish paint will warm the body panel and the paint.

Chemical Absorption- As noted above, paint, like skin, absorbs chemicals. As in the Vaseline example from Jason Rose above, chemicals that absorb into the paint can increase its thickness, causing it to expand multi-dimensionally (like a balloon that is being filled with air).

Combination- The combination of chemical and temperature related swelling is the most likely effect. As some chemicals, which are being forced into the paint during the polishing process heat, they will compound the expansion (particularly true of solvents and oils).

Heading back to Jason Rose to finish this thought, “Now, you must know that paint elongation (thus swelling) is a VARIABLE. This means what you experienced on one car does not mean all cars. What you experienced on one BMW does not mean all BMWs react the same. And especially when you buff on fresh paint with any product you can experience varying degrees of paint hardness and thickness on day one vs day four, or 6 months later.

Take a freshly paint car and sand/buff it/ two steps of sanding and two steps of polishing. We should have removed a lot of paint, right? Paint thickness should be shorter, right? Not always. I have COUNTLESS times measured taller thicknesses on fresh paint after removing a lot paint. Why? How? Fresh paint is still full of escaping solvents. Buffing heats up paint. Solvents, resins, and other ingredients in paint swell when you heat them up (You know the whole liquid/gas thing that helps bombs work. I,m not a chemist, but I know something is working there.) By measuring this same paint daily for 3 months, you will see that paint thickness has a life of its own ”

Unfortunately, for detailers or enthusiasts, paint swelling is extremely small and impossible to visually inspect for. (expansion of 1/10th of a mil or 1/10,000th of an inch would be excessive). Even this small amount of swelling, caused by chemical reaction, heat, or a combination of both, could be enough to mask paint defects.

Chemically stripping the paint will not remove any chemicals that have absorbed; attempting to cool the paint may not make the original shape return. Instead it may take hours, weeks, or months. Defect masking via swelling is not a common occurrence, but it can explain unexplained paint defect drop back.


Taking The Steps To Avoid Draw Back

The first question to ask yourself is whether or not you should consider worrying about draw back in the first place. If you are detailing a car professionally and guaranteeing long-lasting results then it would be necessary. If you are maintaining your own vehicle, which you keep a fresh coat of wax or paint sealant on, and lovingly polish every 6 months to a year, then it may be overkill.

1. Start by wiping the paint down thoroughly before polishing with a dedicated chemical stripping agent. This will remove any waxes, silicones, or polymers that may cause unwanted reactions when exposed to the machine polishing process.
   
2. Use the least aggressive method, including machine choice, required to polish the paint. The lower the level of friction used, the less likely paint swelling (as a result of heat) will occur.
   
3. Use polishes that are are labels as "body shop safe". These polishes are designed with out the use of waxes, silicones, or any ingredient that could contaminate the polishing process.
   
4. Complete your polishing by using a dual action polisher instead of a rotary style polisher. This way, if there is any unwanted drop back, it will be in the random pattern that a dual action polisher creates instead of the direct drive linear motion of a rotary polisher. Modern advancements in pads, chemicals, and even techniques allow dual action polishers to create the same levels of gloss as other polisher styles while reducing the heat created as well.
   
5. After polishing use a chemical stripper to remove any polishing oils and residues.

Maintain Your Finish Properly

Keeping a fine of wax or paint sealant on the paint will dramatically reduce the chance of drop back.

Any wax or sealant that is working is to some degree of filling/masking. This is a result of the nature of how the product works and attaches to the paint surface, as well as well as how it creates gloss. Waxes and sealants are designed to deposit themselves on to the paint surface. Any areas that have micro-fine scratches and swirl marks will, as a result, receive some degree of filling.

Some waxes will fill to a much higher degree and some are designed as a paint filler from the get-go.

Washing your car carefully, using proper technique and high-quality soaps, will help keep your wax or sealant intact, further reducing the chance of drop back from occurring.

[Rocket]

Very nicely written Todd! Will you be updating this when Optimum`s new eraser product is available?

[Pats300zx]

Excellent job Todd !!!

[TroyScherer]

Good info Todd.


I do agree and am leaning more and more to entire "brand" detailing.
I am seeing and believe in Synergetic Excellence in sticking with one brand to get the most from your products and process.

[Todd@RUPES]

Very nicely written Todd! Will you be updating this when Optimum`s new eraser product is available?

Sure!

[BobbyG]

Interesting article Todd. While I haven`t tried Gtechniq Panel Wipe, I`m very satisfied with the performance and results of CarPro Eraser.

CarPro Eraser is $2.00 more than Gtechniq Panel Wipe so there`s not a huge difference in price so any performance differences between the two are the focus here.

When judging solely by performance, Gtechniq Panel Wipe appears to be the product of choice. Carpro Eraser costs more, required 2 applications, all things being equal, and it`s performance falls short of Gtechniq Panel Wipe.....

Great comparison Todd....

[dd1101]

Great review Todd. Have you tried Griots Paint Prep? If so how would you compare that?

[Bunky]

Great review Todd. Have you tried Griots Paint Prep? If so how would you compare that?

Me too. I have used Griot`s pre-wax cleaner and it does knock down the LSP somewhat but nothing more controlled.

[Lou Bunn]

Interesting article, and if you will, I have a couple questions. I`m a mostly retired guy that started detailing cars for extra cash and I am in no way at the level that Mr. Helme has achieved. My "customers" are friends and word of mouth folks. They have daily drivers they want cleaned, and at this beach area, you either clean it or watch it rust. So, after reading for months on this and the other forums, I thought I had a pretty good handle on things. Now, not sure. I see a lot of company`s that have the whole, cleaner, wash, polish, and wax and they say start here - end up there. OK, all well and good, BUT, I like Megs M105/D300 on CG microfiber pads with my PCXP, then I love some BFWD to top. I`ve never seen any reactions, or non-bonding issues.
So, am I ok? Is BFWD just that good ? (I`d say yeah!)
Or would I be better to mix up some alcohol and distilled water and wipe before I wax?

Now these are not beaters, but they ain`t Lambo`s either - mostly Toyotas, Fords, etc

Thanks
Lou, by the ocean, Bunn

[Wors]

Great write up Todd. The post is very informative on both products. How do the products compare to

Detailer`s Pro Series Cleanse-All Exterior Cleaner

Is the DP Cleanse All more for trim prep?

[Todd@RUPES]

Interesting article, and if you will, I have a couple questions. I`m a mostly retired guy that started detailing cars for extra cash and I am in no way at the level that Mr. Helme has achieved. My "customers" are friends and word of mouth folks. They have daily drivers they want cleaned, and at this beach area, you either clean it or watch it rust. So, after reading for months on this and the other forums, I thought I had a pretty good handle on things. Now, not sure. I see a lot of company`s that have the whole, cleaner, wash, polish, and wax and they say start here - end up there. OK, all well and good, BUT, I like Megs M105/D300 on CG microfiber pads with my PCXP, then I love some BFWD to top. I`ve never seen any reactions, or non-bonding issues.
So, am I ok? Is BFWD just that good ? (I`d say yeah!)
Or would I be better to mix up some alcohol and distilled water and wipe before I wax?

Now these are not beaters, but they ain`t Lambo`s either - mostly Toyotas, Fords, etc

Thanks
Lou, by the ocean, Bunn

BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond does a fairly great job of bonding over almost previous surface treatment. Would wiping with alcohol help? Maybe, but if you are not seeing any negative effects from your process then stick with it.

[Todd@RUPES]

Great write up Todd. The post is very informative on both products. How do the products compare to

Detailer`s Pro Series Cleanse-All Exterior Cleaner

Is the DP Cleanse All more for trim prep?

Cleanse All will strip or reduce most LSP`s, but it has to be rinsed off the surface. The above stripping agents are mist and wipe.

[PFix]

Great info Todd. Now bring on the EXO V2!

[LostHighway]

It would be interesting to see how these relatively boutique products compare to the long list of body shop panel wipe/paint prep products.
In my, admittedly limited, experience most polymer sealants are fairly forgiving of surface contaminants with the possible exceptions of significantly dirty surfaces or of old school oily glazes intended for use under waxes. The new exotic coatings, however, appear to be extremely intolerant of surface contamination in almost any form. Since the list of these products is growing very rapidly, at least on a branding/marketing level, it would appear that attention to surface prep and application conditions is likely to be an issue of increasing significance.

[TroyScherer]

In an effort to try and "stretch" my Eraser while lower my cost as well I have started making a new 50/50 solution of Eraser and my normal IPA solution. This adds the slickness and less drag of Eraser to my much cheaper IPA mixture.