The marring can be polished out, but it will take something other than a glaze to do it.
The polish used to remove the sap was evidently abrasive enough that it left the fine scratches.
What you have to do is level the paint surrounding those scratches so it is all the same.
When you "remove" marring, you actually remove the paint surrounding that marring. The more you polish, the more paint you remove.
Chances are that enough clearcoat is on the car to allow you to do that, but the possibility of going through the clear is there.
The most aggressive polishing I have done on clear coated paint has been with
Poorboy's SSR 2.5, Meguiar's #83, and Meguiar's #80. All with a polishing pad and a PC at speed 6.
The
PB's SSR 2.5 and the Meg's #83 seem to be very comparable. After either one, you may need to follow up with a milder polish. Some paint seems to finish ready for the LSP, but not all paints will.
Meg's #80 is quite a bit less aggressive and is what I would probably try first. If you work just one of the spots, you should know pretty quickly how it is going to work. Again, a polishing pad on the PC at speed 6.
It will be slower going with the #80, but there is also less chance of removing too much paint.
Someone else may chip in with how
PB's SSR 2 would work, but I have only used the SSR 2.5.
Your friend might be happier with less than perfect results rather than have to paint the hood.
The thing I would be concerned about is how much paint did he remove while polishing off the sap.
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