Premium Detailed. Lots of randomness.

[JaredPointer]

I think I remember "re-flowing" paint was done on older single stage lead paint. Not that I have ever done it, seen it done, etc. Just saying I think it used to be an option a long time ago.

[Ronkh]

Originally Posted by JaredPointer

I think I remember "re-flowing" paint was done on older single stage lead paint. Not that I have ever done it, seen it done, etc. Just saying I think it used to be an option a long time ago.

Thata would make sense. But not with paints of today.

[Spawne32]

Originally Posted by JaredPointer

I think I remember "re-flowing" paint was done on older single stage lead paint. Not that I have ever done it, seen it done, etc. Just saying I think it used to be an option a long time ago.

thats a good question, ill have to ask my dad about that, hes been painting since before i was born, it helps to have spent 25 years growing up in the business

[GearHead_1]

Originally Posted by JaredPointer

I think I remember "re-flowing" paint was done on older single stage lead paint. Not that I have ever done it, seen it done, etc. Just saying I think it used to be an option a long time ago.

Yup, lacquer paints is where I used to hear this term used. I even had one of the old timers (he was very good) show me the process when I was in my early 20's. His job turned out just fine but his wool pad looked just like mine when he was finished and so did the end product and I'll I was doing was "polishing/buffing" to the best of my knowledge.

I guess I can say that I never really believed the process did what the term implied. Maybe I've been re-flowing paint all these years. I really didn't know I was that good. I also had another painter try to tell me that he could spray an area that was particularly poorly prepped and fix it with a buffer once the paint had dried by re-flowing the paint. The Bondo had shrunk and had lines/cracks in it, there was no way this was happening. Of course I was thinking why don't you just have the body guys do the job right before you get to it. As I remember he couldn't get the guys back on it and still meet his schedule. I knew he couldn't fix it and a couple of weeks later saw the car, it appeared to have been dipped in paint multiple times (the paint appeared exceptionally thick).

It was probably a decent 15 footer with nice gloss but on closer inspection it had the same lines I saw before it was painted though less exaggerated and had been buffed out by him. I think he put so much primer and paint down he tried to fill the cracks. With today's paints I'm more resolute on this opinion than in the past.

[cartoysautospa]

I guess I need to clarify to you guys even more. This process is "NOT" that your re flowing the paint as paints today are base coat clear coat, except Toyota Black which is still single stage up until 2007-08. But you can re flow the clear....or level the clear to cover up a scratch. I do not use a wool pad..however the guy that taught me, a wool pad is what he demonstrated it to me with.I use a Ardex , Yellow foam pad or a Lake Country Purple Pad. I use a compound similar t o 3M's perfect cut ( orange) which polishes 1000-1500 grit scratches. You use a first a slow speed 600 rpms and push the compound into the surface,(about 25lbs. pf pressure) when the compound becomes slick then turn up the speed of your buffer to 1750-2000 rpms. You then want to move the buffer back n forth in a aggressive manner...........to disperse the heat. this generates lots of heat. you want to keep your eye on the scratch............keep moving the buffer.once the temperature gets right......the clear fills the scratch. I use glass cleaner.............. to quickly remove the haze. oyu will be able to tell if you got the paint hot enuff as the glass cleaner should be smokin.
After you wipe down the area............ I use a Ardex Green foam pad with some polishing compound light cut like........... 3m perfectict 2 or something similar. I don;t use this brand , but whatever you like. buff that at 2000 or above rpm until it's slick.. And if you want to go another step.. wipe it down again , I use a Ardex Blue pad with just some straight cleaner polish. It's a lot of steps..........most guys don't have the patience to do this, but it can be effective on the right car. again it's not for every scratch...........but it does work.
It's not for the timid buffer. But it has made me the fair haired boy on occasion with a client that took his car elsewhere. hey but what do I know.
CarToys Inc

[Spawne32]

lol

A) you cant reflow urethane clear without ruining it because the heat it needs to flow again would wreck the finish, i suggest you do your research on how urethane paints work

B) your not reflowing anything by what you described, your leveling the clear by using compound and polish....just like every other method described on here

C) your obviously a troll and your spamming your website in you user name and posts

[GearHead_1]

Originally Posted by Spawne32

lol

A) you cant reflow urethane clear without ruining it because the heat it needs to flow again would wreck the finish, i suggest you do your research on how urethane paints work

B) your not reflowing anything by what you described, your leveling the clear by using compound and polish....just like every other method described on here

C) your obviously a troll and your spamming your website in you user name and posts

This is just a matter of good manners. I assure you cartoysautospa is very sincere in this belief. There is no cause to call someone a troll because they practice a technique that is not generally accepted by the majority of this forum. Since the last incarnation of this site posting a link to your own detailing site in your signature, (as long as you are not a product vendor) is perfectly acceptable. Other than to say he has products custom made for his own purposes I have not seen him name a product.

[Spawne32]

Originally Posted by GearHead_1

I assure you cartoysautospa is very sincere in this belief. There is no cause to call someone a troll because they have a belief in a technique. Since the last incarnation of this site posting a link to your own detailing site, (as long as you are not a product vendor) is perfectly acceptable.

fair enough, but bad advice isn't a technique, everyone on this forum, including yourself, knows that when you heat urethane clear to the melting point, you damage it, not correct it.

[GearHead_1]

Originally Posted by Spawne32

fair enough, but bad advice isn't a technique, everyone on this forum, including yourself, knows that when you heat urethane clear to the melting point, you damage it, not correct it.

I've made my feelings on this matter perfectly clear earlier in this thread. I don't believe it but he does and that's what we do here is discuss practices. Good, bad or completely out there. As long as he's not doing it to my car I can sleep with the claims he makes.

[Spawne32]

Originally Posted by GearHead_1

I've made my feelings on this matter perfectly clear earlier in this thread. I don't believe it but he does and that's what we do here is discuss practices. Good, bad or completely out there. As long as he's not doing it to my car I can sleep with the claims he makes.

[Ronkh]

Originally Posted by Spawne32

lol


B) your not reflowing anything by what you described, your leveling the clear by using compound and polish....just like every other method described on here

My thoughts exactly. Nothing more than most on this board do. It's smoke and mirrors or a sales pitch used to trick customers to think he's better than someone else.

[Anthony O.]

Many on here have far more experience than I do so I'll be brief and just restate that what this "method" or "technique" is doing is NOT re-flowing anything. What's happening is clear coat is being leveled down to the scratch itself thus appearing to be "re-flowed".

If anyone still disagrees then ask yourself a logical question.

If clear coat is "clear" how can it, again being CLEAR, fill any scratch?

Remember clear coat has no pigment to it thus a scratch on a black car will remain a scratch no matter how much clear you "flow" into it. Now if a scratch is not down to primer and one is able to correct it it's because they leveled the paint not because the clear was "re-flowed". If a scratch is down to the primer then again no amount of clear being flowed into it by a buffing process will hide it, why? Because it needs to be 1) filled in and 2) filled in with a pigmented paint. Not a CLEAR non-pigmented paint.

Geez......sorry to the OP for the thread hi-jack.

Anthony

[cartoysautospa]

it's not that I believe or dis believe, it works on SOME SCRATCHES NOT ALL !!!!
DOES it make it 100% fixed ! but it's better than repainting . Sometimes you guys are a little too extreme. Detailing is about making the customer happy..and where it doesn't cost t hem a arm and a leg to satisfy their anal anxiety's.

I n most cases people are happy with a 85% improvement of their problem. This is one of those Techniques. NO MORE NO LESS..................Can we move on ?

[Spawne32]

Originally Posted by cartoysautospa

it's not that I believe or dis believe, it works on SOME SCRATCHES NOT ALL !!!!
DOES it make it 100% fixed ! but it's better than repainting . Sometimes you guys are a little too extreme. Detailing is about making the customer happy..and where it doesn't cost t hem a arm and a leg to satisfy their anal anxiety's.

I n most cases people are happy with a 85% improvement of their problem. This is one of those Techniques. NO MORE NO LESS..................Can we move on ?

i dont think your understanding what were saying....your not "reflowing" the paint, but i guess we will just leave it at that.

[cartoysautospa]

I guess you didn't read my post from yesterday........as I said I guess my term and your term are two different things..............Let's just call it paint leveling.

It's evident some of oyu are more ANAL than me and that's scary ! lol