lucas oil treatment

[uadetailing]

UPDATE GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I GOT THE LUCAL OIL STABILIZER AND ITS VERY THICK LIKE GEAR OIL ADDED ABOUT A LIL LESS THEN HALF OF IT AND THE MOTORS QUITE NOW. its not due for a next oil change till next month till then ill keep this in it then run q hp xxxlly synthentic in it liek i run in my g35 works varrry nice lol

[GearHead_1]

Originally Posted by uadetailing

the motors fine its got noisy injecters tho

Originally Posted by uadetailing

UPDATE GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I GOT THE LUCAL OIL STABILIZER AND ITS VERY THICK LIKE GEAR OIL ADDED ABOUT A LIL LESS THEN HALF OF IT AND THE MOTORS QUITE NOW.

Didn't you just say the engine was fine?

[black bart]

Originally Posted by uadetailing

UPDATE GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I GOT THE LUCAL OIL STABILIZER AND ITS VERY THICK LIKE GEAR OIL ADDED ABOUT A LIL LESS THEN HALF OF IT AND THE MOTORS QUITE NOW. its not due for a next oil change till next month till then ill keep this in it then run q hp xxxlly synthentic in it liek i run in my g35 works varrry nice lol

Glad to hear that worked. Once you get it cleaned out run a good synthetic because it has much more cleaning power.
Don't know what engine you have but some are more prone than others to have thus kind of problem.
Remember the big sludge problem that destroyed thousands of Toyota engines.
It took a class action law suit to get them to pay people who had to have their engines replaced.
After that they redesigned the engine to take care of the problem.

[black bart]

Originally Posted by CharlesW

Which is exactly why the boost controllers I added to the two turbo Talons I owned could only be adjusted from under the hood.
Most people with cockpit adjustable controllers can't resist that urge to twist that knob.

I have to fight that urge all the time I have a Jacobs mastermind controller at my finger tips right on the console beside the shifter and I can vary the Nitrous 150 HP with just a twist of a knob.

[Scott P]

Back to the original topic. I'm a fan of both Auto-Rx and Lube Control. I'd go for Auto-Rx first though. The rambling first post made no mention of miles, but a standard cleaning cycle with a good dino oil like Pennzoil yellow bottle would be a great start. A simple Google search will turn up the websites of both products.

[uadetailing]

another update guys its a 1999 escort with 93k on the motor come to find out i listened carfully just like one of the forum members said its the hydralic lifter it only makes noise one and a while not bad the next oil change ima run synthetic oil in it dont know what to go with i run q hp oil in my infinty g35

[njcarting1]

Originally Posted by uadetailing

another update guys its a 1999 escort with 93k on the motor come to find out i listened carfully just like one of the forum members said its the hydralic lifter it only makes noise one and a while not bad the next oil change ima run synthetic oil in it dont know what to go with i run q hp oil in my infinty g35

Synthetic oil will not stop a dry lifter tap. If its a dry lifter noise run some goop in the engine, stp,whynns friction proofing,the extra cost of synthetic oil will not do anything the Pennsylvania grade oil will do. Its a ten year old throw away car at this point with high miles just run it. Keep the level where it should be and keep the oil clean. Save your money for a new motor don't waste it on synthetic oil.

If you want a better grade of oil change over to a 15/40 like shell rotella -T its a diesel oil with additives. It will be a bit heavier but will quiet the noise and keep the thing clean. Most guys I know and even the cops run 15/40 in the fleet cars, they are run hard and never have a problem because of it.

[black bart]

Originally Posted by njcarting1

Synthetic oil will not stop a dry lifter tap. If its a dry lifter noise run some goop in the engine, stp,whynns friction proofing,the extra cost of synthetic oil will not do anything the Pennsylvania grade oil will do. Its a ten year old throw away car at this point with high miles just run it. Keep the level where it should be and keep the oil clean. Save your money for a new motor don't waste it on synthetic oil.

If you want a better grade of oil change over to a 15/40 like shell rotella -T its a diesel oil with additives. It will be a bit heavier but will quiet the noise and keep the thing clean. Most guys I know and even the cops run 15/40 in the fleet cars, they are run hard and never have a problem because of it.

Boy this is a old school out dated response.
For some people times will never change.

[njcarting1]

Originally Posted by black bart

Boy this is a old school out dated response.
For some people times will never change.

I run lubrication engineers oil in my stuff, change oil and filter every 10-k. What ya gonna tell me about that stuff its garbage? Some people do know whats what. A Buddy of mine owns a farm and has been using the stuff sense the 60's and never lost a motor in 30-plus farm tractor motors in all that time. Yes they run and change oil in at least 30-plus tractors and another dozen cars and trucks. The founder was a personal friend of the owner of the farm,the stuff was used and perfected in the aerospace industry. Its not cheep, its not at napa or walmart, and its not a fly by night product. Tried and tested is whats getting any company through now days.

With a 1000 dollar car with 90-plus thousand miles who wants to spend 4-5 bucks a qt for oil to quiet a noisy lifter.

[black bart]

The problem is not that you suggest a dino oil it is that you suggest a 15-40 diesel oil
.
Ford originally called for 5-30 on this engine but has been back spec-ed to 5-20
Modern passenger cars do not use a 40 weight.

I have used a lot of barrels of Rotella in my cummins powered trucks but I would not think of using it in my new car for one thing it would void the warranty.

40 weight was great for a badly worn 50 chevy with the clearance that they had but it has no place in a modern engine unless it was put together with excessive clearance like a racing engine and even most of those no longer are built for heavy oil.

New drag engines run on 0 weight oil
The day of heavy oil in passenger cars is long over.
Comparing the escort to what you use in a diesel farm tractor is a apples and oranges comparison. .

[atkinsonair]

I personally like as a additive is seafoam, use it as top end motor cleaner, pour in oil and in gas tank. But you should change your oil after top end cleaning.

[Tex Star Detail]

Seafoam is very nice. I used it yesterday actually for the first time. Was always skeptical about if it was all hype or not. I must say that I am pretty impressed with it.

Smokes like none other, but who doesn't like a smoke show? I instantly noticed an improvement in the idle, as it smoothed out. Throttle response is better as well. Not too many times can you use a product and actually feel an improvement.

[njcarting1]

Originally Posted by black bart

The problem is not that you suggest a dino oil it is that you suggest a 15-40 diesel oil
.
Ford originally called for 5-30 on this engine but has been back spec-ed to 5-20
Modern passenger cars do not use a 40 weight.

I have used a lot of barrels of Rotella in my cummins powered trucks but I would not think of using it in my new car for one thing it would void the warranty.

40 weight was great for a badly worn 50 chevy with the clearance that they had but it has no place in a modern engine unless it was put together with excessive clearance like a racing engine and even most of those no longer are built for heavy oil.

New drag engines run on 0 weight oil
The day of heavy oil in passenger cars is long over.
Comparing the escort to what you use in a diesel farm tractor is a apples and oranges comparison. .

I here what ya say about smaller oil passages in the newer cars and also tighter clearances. I know the Maine state police run a Mobil synthetic in all there cars and trucks. They dump the oil at 10-k and have not ever lost a motor either. They have check with ford and the heavy oil has not voided any warranty's sense the change over from the 20 weight oil. I know it sounds funny but they have and do run heavy oil.

I think many municipal fleets around here are also doing the same. I am sure I would not try doing what they do but why would they care we gotta pay for those mistakes also...

[occupant]

I do wonder if Ford back-spec'd the oil on my '76 351M-powered Torino to 5W20. Here's the spec chart from my '75 owner's manual (the '76 manual is out in the car)

Outside Temp 32F or below: 5W30
-10F to 90F: 10W30
-10F to above 90F: 10W40
Above 10F only: 20W40
Above 32F only: SAE 30
Above 60F only: SAE 40

Of course I don't always follow the directions. The car burns as much oil as gas. I add about 2 quarts every tank of fuel. The engine is on its last legs so I'll throw anything in there. Since my last oil change with 10W40 in the 90-degree heat of May I have topped off with:

3 quarts of AutoZone 10W40 SJ
3 quarts of Valvoline 50W racing oil
2 quarts of SuperTech 20W50 SL
1 quart of Pennzoil 40W SL

I've only driven it 1000 miles since that oil change. It doesn't leak a DROP. It doesn't smoke either. Go figure. I wonder where all the oil is going?

[gumball]

I use amsoil in all my vehicles.