Buffer Burn Experience

[zey]

Hi everyone, I finally experienced buffer burn on the paintwork yesterday while using a rotary polisher. The clearcoat was gone and leaving a rough/blur surface spot. Still feeling heartache due to this incident . How many of you had experienced buffer burn before? Please also state out what have you learned from this experience. Thanks.

[imported_Burlyq]

Tell us how you got it, what products and procedures did you use??

[zey]

Product used: Meguiar`s #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish

Pad used: Meguiar`s W-8006 Polishing Pad

Buffer make: Makita 9227C

Buffer speed: 1200rpm

Damaged area: C-pillar edge, near to the roof



Paintwork around the damaged area is flawless now, factory orange peel being removed, gloss is maximum, clearcoat texture is very fine.

[buellwinkle]

#83 is fairly mild and a diminshing abbrasive so I`m surprised. Did you have the pad flat against the paint or were you using the edge or if tilted, what angle?

[zey]

Due to tight corners, I had to tilt my pad abit in order not to touch certain parts. Could it be it`s an old paint (4 years+) and the clearcoat thickness had been reduced over the years?

[Mochamanz1]

Total "contact area" matters. When polishing pillar`s, contours, etc-, the amount of surface being contacted can be critical. If you are buffing an area where the pad is making contact with a small area, that contact area can heat up more rapidly than predictable, due to the increased friction in a limited spot. Result is a burn or a bad swirl. I have learned this the hard way, and in more than one instance ! :sosad Now my practice is to "pretend" to buff certain areas of a car, to simulate my movements before I start. This might seem a little "brain dead", but I am forewarned of where I might tend to mess up at.:xyxthumbs

[spotpad]

I always try and do the job with @ 600 rpm initially, then bump it up slowly to 900rpm. Due to the humidity (80%), I can never get above this rpm level without the product drying too fast.

[zey]

I have figured out some reasons why I did the mistake:



1) The burn spot is at the welding point, paint could be thinner over there.



2) I didn`t put enough of #83, less lubricity increases friction. The increased friction heats up the paintwork quickly and causing the clearcoat to breakdown.



3) I didn`t move my arm fast enough. I think I should swing it 50cm/second?

[tinman]

3) I didn`t move my arm fast enough. I think I should swing it 50cm/second?

Hey are you the "Flash".

[J.J.]

Originally posted by tinman

Hey are you the "Flash".

Ha! Ha! I was thinking the same thing. There`s no way you need to swing it that fast IMO?



JJ

[zey]

Ha! Ha! Then I better reduce to 15cm/second. What I noticed in Meguiar`s How to Remove Paint Defects video is, they move their arm abit too slow for my paintwork. At that rate, I think my paint could have burnt especially with the maroon cutting pad.

[MorBid]

I have one of those pads and they are firmer than the LC Orange (which I though was pretty firm).



I have it from back in the day but find now if something needs that kind of attention I`ll use wool instead.



Has this car every had any body work done to it? Maybe that area was repaired and repainted?

[foxtrapper]

Sure I`ve burned and gone through. A rotary is much more prone to it than a random action unit, though both are quite capable.



What have I learned? Stay out of the tight spots, work off the top, not from the valley up, stay off the high spots, keep moving.

[wannafbody]

I`m not sure of others opinions but I personally wouldn`t use a cutting pad with a rotary-a polishing pad and a middle range abrasive polish SHOULD be all you need