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  1. #1

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    So I`ve learned a lot on this forum as well as on autogeek.com. I used to detail cars a lot by hand, but have never done a real paint correction job. So my wife bought me a PC7424 and Meg 105/205 for Christmas, and I had a chance to try it out on my 2001 Volvo S60.



    I didn`t do a full detail and this isn`t a write up, more like a review of my 1st experience.



    Washed with Dawn and Clay to remove previous wax

    IPA Wipedown

    Meg 105 w/LC Orange applie via KBM

    Meg 205 w/LC White

    IPA Wipedown

    Meg NXT Tech Wax 2.0 (purchased last year and still not used; waiting on my Zaino)



    Before: car was heavily swirled





    After: 90% of defects removed, and 205 finished very well





    I think that the Volvo has a hard clear coat because there are scratches on the car that I couldn`t get rid of. They look deeper and a little wider than the average swirl but I still could not feel them with my finger nail. Would a Surbuf pad be more effective overall than the Orange pad? And I noticed that after doing half the car, there was a lot of caking build up in the middle of the Orange pad and forced me to use another pad, was this due to too much product? Other than that, I had no problem with using 105 except for being dusty. Any thoughts?

  2. #2
    Zoraduntov's Avatar
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    If when using 105 the pad has plenty of product on it but the polishing surface looks dry, is it ok to keep buffing ?

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by zoraduntov
    If when using 105 the pad has plenty of product on it but the polishing surface looks dry, is it ok to keep buffing ?


    I would like to know this also. At times the surface looked clean while I was cutting with 105, but lookiing closely right after the pad I could slight hazing on the paint so I new there was some product left.

  4. #4
    Zoraduntov's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbnery6465
    I would like to know this also. At times the surface looked clean while I was cutting with 105, but lookiing closely right after the pad I could slight hazing on the paint so I new there was some product left.


    Also if you feel the pad , there is quite a bit left on the pad but the polishing surface is dry . Is this safe to continue to work on your paint this way

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbnery6465
    Would a Surbuf pad be more effective overall than the Orange pad?


    I`d stick with the orange foam or maybe try PFW. Even Kevin Brown, a great proponent of Surbuf pads, thinks that they`re best left to more experienced users.



    I`d just do more passes until you get a very good feel for this stuff.


    And I noticed that after doing half the car, there was a lot of caking build up in the middle of the Orange pad and forced me to use another pad, was this due to too much product?


    Maybe, but more likely than not it just needed cleaned more frequently/thoroughly. I clean/replace pads a *LOT* with M105.




    Quote Originally Posted by zoraduntov
    If when using 105 the pad has plenty of product on it but the polishing surface looks dry, is it ok to keep buffing ?


    (heh heh, I like your username, though that appreciation might date me a bit, huh )




    No, I wouldn`t work M105 in the absence of polishing oils/etc. I even question whether those of limited experience should try reactivating it with water/etc.



    Sounds like you might be overworking the product, which can lead to not-so-micro-marring. But hey, some people here seem to work M105 a lot longer than I do before buffing it off, and they`re happy with how it works for them.



    I suspect this gets back to the need to clean/replace the pads much more often than one might expect (or like).



    This might be a good time to repeat that I like to use a #34 spritz when buffing off M105 residue, better lubricity than IPA/etc.

 

 

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