How to get blend newly sprayed clear coat with old

**endollan** · 06-05-2007, 04:20 PM

I`ve just sprayed on some new clear cloat after doing some wet sanding on my bumper to get rid of some minor scratches. I`ve used masking tape to keep myself from overspray and now I have a rectangular line of my clear coat. I`ve tried using the Turtle Polishing Compound to blend and smooth out the clear coat, but I still notice it. What else can i do get blend everything together. Thanks.

**coupe** · 06-05-2007, 05:18 PM

Oh man......

You wetsanded then sprayed clear to remove the scratches?

**Grimm** · 06-05-2007, 05:50 PM

Take it to a body shop :grinno:

**BlueLibby04** · 06-05-2007, 06:02 PM

wetsand it.. haha..

**757motoring** · 06-05-2007, 06:09 PM

I work doing automotive paint and from what I can understand from your thread you went about it the wrong way. First off if you wet sand a scratch and you still see it spraying clear over it will not get the scratch gone its still there. Then what type of clear did you use something out of a can which would be another problem thats why they make automotive paints that should be sprayed out of gravity feed guns. If I understand correct you put a tape line on the bumper to keep overspray from carrying which left a line. It would have be easier to clean off a little over spray particles then the line I would try some form of paint thinner if its not real close to where you applied your cear because then it would ruin that. I think your best bet is to get it professionally fixed to make it right

**endollan** · 06-05-2007, 07:16 PM

I was thinking about using something like a rubbing compound. Here is what one site said.

Using the Rubbing Compound

Rubbing compound is not normally needed when using the paint pen but you can apply it to the entire area to make the area smoother and shinier. Let the clearcoat dry for at least three days before using the rubbing compound. Use a clean, very soft cloth like an old tee shirt (for example DO NOT USE PAPER PRODUCTS as the wood fibers will scratch the paint!). Place a small quantity of rubbing compound on the vehicle and use circular strokes and apply even pressure to the vehicle. It`s almost like waxing a vehicle except the rubbing compound is like an extremely fine liquid sandpaper. Buff with a clean cloth to a high gloss. (You may want to spray some paint and clearcoat on a smooth surface and practice to get the feel of it.) Sometimes lots of pressure is required to make the clear shine. The rubbing compound can also be applied by machine, but careful, it`s very easy to burn the paint! You can get the same results by hand, it will just take a bit longer.

**pb_foots** · 06-06-2007, 08:09 AM

I would sand the line with some 2500/3000 and then respray the clear out to a body line where you won`t notice the difference.

I resprayed the top of my bumber because of the lousy 90`s GM bumper paint and took it all the way out to the bumper trim line. That way there`s no stop point in the middle of the bumper.

**endollan** · 06-09-2007, 01:18 PM

That wouldn`t work too well, since my scratch is in the middle. I can spray from top to bottom, but what about left to right, that whole bumper area will be sprayed to not have the line. I`m looking for something to blend in the clear coat between the new and old. I`m sure people do that spot detailing at the auto shop don`t repaint the whole bumper. So I`m guessing that that put a clear coat on also, so how do they blend in the clear coat? One person said to use paint thinner, but is that the best advice? I wanted to get as many people`s advice as possible. Thanks for any advice.

**imported_themightytimmah** · 06-09-2007, 01:22 PM

I`ve heard of people re-clearing the whole panel in this case - last time I had this problem with someone else`s repaint, I sanded the blend lines with 2500 and buffed with a wool pad - the results were a significant improvement, although not perfect. It may be perfectable - I was just afraid of removing too much clear at the line and causing failure of the factory paint.

**endollan** · 06-09-2007, 04:15 PM

It would be nice to get the scratches and blend the line to as perfect as possible, but I`m mainly looking for 90% perfection of the job with minimal cost. Do I need a machine to use the wool pad? Anyone used a rubbing compound before?

**FitSport** · 06-10-2007, 08:53 AM

Do you have any photos of the job at hand? I`m curious as to what the new clear looks like. And I don`t think paint thinner is a good idea. It might be too strong for this application.

**imported_steveo3002** · 06-10-2007, 09:46 AM

painting up to a masking like was a bad idea

all you can do now is try and sand the edge away and polish it...or sand and re clear a bigger area and dont spray up to a masking edge this time

**salty** · 06-10-2007, 12:52 PM

Originally Posted by endollan

I was thinking about using something like a rubbing compound. Here is what one site said.

Using the Rubbing Compound

Rubbing compound is not normally needed when using the paint pen but you can apply it to the entire area to make the area smoother and shinier. Let the clearcoat dry for at least three days before using the rubbing compound. Use a clean, very soft cloth like an old tee shirt (for example DO NOT USE PAPER PRODUCTS as the wood fibers will scratch the paint!). Place a small quantity of rubbing compound on the vehicle and use circular strokes and apply even pressure to the vehicle. It`s almost like waxing a vehicle except the rubbing compound is like an extremely fine liquid sandpaper. Buff with a clean cloth to a high gloss. (You may want to spray some paint and clearcoat on a smooth surface and practice to get the feel of it.) Sometimes lots of pressure is required to make the clear shine. The rubbing compound can also be applied by machine, but careful, it`s very easy to burn the paint! You can get the same results by hand, it will just take a bit longer.

That sounds like very old advice.

Some pics would help but even autobody shops have a hard time doing this type of work so they clear the whole panel.

If you have any micro-repair shops in your area, such as Paint -Bull that might be your cheapest fix.

If the new clear isn`t too old you could buy some lacquar thinner and wipe it off. It won`t harm fully cured 90`s paint if it is done quickly. If it does cloud the old paint just buy some polish, something better than Turtle wax compound, many brands if you read a little on this site.

You could try to remove just enough new clear with the above method, but the paint will be thickest beside the tape. Then polish after.

You could carefully wetsand if the new clear is built up more than the old, but you might have a bigger problem to fix, as you might go through surrounding clear.

You could remove with LT as stated above and then a quick respray without tape. Tape off surrounding panels. Let dry and polish. Success 50/50.

Welcome to Autopia and good luck.

**endollan** · 06-30-2007, 03:47 PM

I have attached 3 pictures that show`s what I`m trying to fix. The first 2 pictures is where I tried to mask the area and then put a clear coat on. Which did not fix the problem but worsen it. The 3rd picture is another area that I`m trying to fix. It has been wetsanded with 2000 grit sandpaper and looks matte.

Questions?

1. I`m planning on getting a handheld 6" Orbital from Kragen. Or do I have to get the PC7424 to fix the damage?

2. I`m planning on putting some touchup paint in the 3rd picture and then use the Orbital to polish it.