First Impressions of Finish Kare 1000p

**akimel** · 10-03-2010, 02:36 PM

We purchased our glacier blue Honda CR-V in May 2009. I have only used one protectant on it--Ultima Paint Guard Plus. I love this product, principally because of its ease of us. In less than 15 minutes I can seal the paint, cladding, and trim. One single product does it all, and I don`t even have to go back and buff off the residue. And UPGP`s durability ain`t too shabby either. Three to four months would be a fair estimate, based on our experience. It`s difficult for me to judge, as I will usually apply a fresh coat of UPGP in mid-summer, simply because it`s so very easy to apply. I applied the mid-summer coat in early July, and it was still going strong three months later.

But rather than going with UPGP as my winter protectant, as I did last year, I decided to switch to Finish Kare 1000p, which is known for its outstanding durability. I`ve had this tin of the stuff for over a year. If I don`t use it now, when will I ever use it? And though I am quite satisfied with UPGP`s durability, my sense is that five months of winter exceeds its protective limits.

Yesterday I decided to do my fall detail of our CR-V. I washed the vehicle with a double dose of CG`s Citrus Wash Clear and then clayed it. I had intended to go over the paint with a pre-wax cleanser; but I simply did not have the energy and time. I then pulled out my tin of 1000p. What a monster tin! The "Big White" indeed! There`s enough sealant in it to last me until the next millennium. 1000p has to be one of the best wax values on the market. I opened up the tin with a screwdriver and smelled it. It has a chemical smell, but it`s not overpowering in the way, e.g., the smell of Collinite 845 is. I really didn`t notice it during the waxing process.

The advantage of the large tin is that it allows one to get all of the foam applicator into the tin and swirl it around. This is a hard wax. My experience with paste waxes have been limited, for the most part, to boutique waxes like Souveran, Fuzion, and Midnight Sun, all of which seem to melt into the applicator pad. Even Harly Wax liquifies fairly quickly in comparison. 1000p is different in this regard.

Based on advice given in various 1000p threads, I decided to pre-moisten the pad with a spray of quick detailer. I think this was a mistake. It made it more difficult for me to determine whether I was actually getting wax onto the pad and then onto the car. Remember, my CR-V is silver blue. It`s difficult to tell if any way whatsoever is getting applied to the paint surface. I have to rely on touch and feel, and the lubricity added by the quick detailer just made things more difficult for me, so I eventually switched to a fresh applicator and started over again. Much better.

I tried to apply the wax thin. 1000p`s hardness actually makes this easy to do. I worked my way around the vehicle at a leisurely pace. By the time I had finished the car, the wax on the hood had begun to haze. I then proceed to buff off the wax, using my Meguiar`s Ultimate Wipe towels. I really like these towels both for quick detailing and wax removal. I have read that some have found 1000p difficult to remove; but that was not my experience at all. It came off quite easily.

I did not apply the 1000p to the cladding and plastic trim. Hence by choosing to use 1000p an additional work step was added to the process: I had to spend an additional 45 minutes sealing the cladding and trim with Ultima Tire and Trim Guard Plus. I really like this trim dressing, though I`ve only been using it on the windshield cowl, relying instead of UPGP to protect everything else. UTTGP comes with a large foam applicator with foam handle. I confess I was skeptical whether the darn thing would work, but it actually worked great on the cladding. I used foam make-up wedges to apply it to narrow and small trim pieces.

I applied the second coat of 1000p the next morning. I had written Finish Kare and asked them how long I should allow the first coat of 1000p to cure before applying a second coat. They advised 24+ hours. This is contrary to others have heard from Finish Kare on the subject, so I messaged one of my favorite Autopia gurus, Bence. Bence appears to have a comprehensive grasp on all matters Finish Kare. He advised me to wait 12-24 hours. So I sliced the difference and waited 18 hours.

The question everyone wants to know, of course, is: How does it look? Answer: it looks great. But I have to admit that I find it hard seeing an optical difference between the UPGP and the 1000p. I haven`t pulled the car out into the sun yet (it`s an overcast day), so perhaps I`ll see something when I do. Bence also tells me that the look will change after the curing process has completed in about three days. Some folks have mentioned that 1000p makes the paint look like an additional layer of clear coat has been added. I have`t seen that illusion yet, but I`ll report back after three days to share my observations.

The most important question for me is: Will two coats of 1000p get me through the winter months. Ideally, the protectant will still be going strong in April. We shall see.

I concluded the session by dressing the tires with Surf City Garage`s Beyond Black. I think my wife will be very pleased when she returns home from her visit to her mother`s.

Cheers,

Al

**JCturboT** · 10-03-2010, 02:47 PM

Al,

I am interested in your findings between UPGP and FK1000P.

Please keep up the updates.

Jeff

**Accumulator** · 10-03-2010, 03:03 PM

akimel- I enjoyed reading this, hope the FK1000P works out for you. I`ll be especially interested to hear what you think of its dirt-shedding abilities. Heh heh, I too let my FK1000P sit around unused for quite a while.

**Thomas Dekany** · 10-03-2010, 04:07 PM

wait a few days and #1000 will look even better.

**Apollo_Auto** · 10-03-2010, 04:18 PM

Originally Posted by tdekany

wait a few days and #1000 will look even better.

Yeah I heard the same thing from Bence... Interesting.

**Alexshimshimhae** · 10-03-2010, 04:19 PM

i guess winter longevity also depends on where you are =] but curious to find out

**Rob Tomlin** · 10-03-2010, 11:14 PM

Originally Posted by tdekany

wait a few days and #1000 will look even better.

That has definitely been my experience as well.

Collinite 845 and FK 1000p remind me a lot of each other.

**Alfisti** · 10-04-2010, 07:39 AM

Is it three days yet?

**akimel** · 10-04-2010, 08:55 AM

Originally Posted by Alfisti

Is it three days yet?

Nope.

I layed down the second coat yesterday morning. I`m not very good at math but I think I still have two more days to go.

**Alfisti** · 10-04-2010, 09:15 AM

Originally Posted by akimel

I`m not very good at math but I think I still have two more days to go.

Is that two `metric` days or `customary` days? :wavey

**akimel** · 10-04-2010, 09:37 AM

Originally Posted by Alfisti

Is that two `metric` days or `customary` days? :wavey

Here in Pax Americana, we go by "American" hours, with each "American" day consisting of 24 "American" hours. :lol

I can share this: the cladding and black plastic trim looks great. Of course, being only a year and a half old, it`s still in very good condition; but the UTTGP not only adds shine but appears to darken the black and thus heighten the contrast between the cladding/trim and the rest of the car. I have been sealing the trim in UPGP, which I will continue to do when I return to UPGP in the spring (simply for convenience sake). I do see a difference (I think) between the UPGP and the UTTGP (I think). Hopefully UTTGP will prove to be very durable.

**Kean** · 10-04-2010, 03:17 PM

....it`s kinda funny. I was in the same situation recently when I detailed my wife`s Forester a couple of weekends ago. Although I had used FK1k mainly for wheels and spot applications, I had never really used it as an LSP during a full detail. I had my tin in my cabinet for several months and figured it was time to try it out.

I had some issues with removal on areas where I applied a bit too much but a mist of FK425 made the residue come off with ease. One characteristic I don`t care for in this product though is its tendency to â€œcake upâ€ and dry in crevices, around emblems, trim, etc. if youâ€™re not careful. Most of the LSPâ€™s I use these days can be layered over most surfaces with no issue (one trait I usually look for).

Iâ€™m planning on adding one more coat this weekend and then seeing how long the protection lasts.

**JCturboT** · 10-04-2010, 06:07 PM

Originally Posted by akimel

I do see a difference (I think) between the UPGP and the UTTGP (I think). Hopefully UTTGP will prove to be very durable.

akimel,

Is the difference good/bad or just different?

Jeff

**Rob Tomlin** · 10-04-2010, 06:25 PM

Originally Posted by Kean

. One characteristic I don`t care for in this product though is its tendency to â€œcake upâ€ and dry in crevices, around emblems, trim, etc. if youâ€™re not careful. Most of the LSPâ€™s I use these days can be layered over most surfaces with no issue (one trait I usually look for).

I completely agree with you on that issue. It is a fairly big drawback to this product in my opinion. You have be careful not to get any around emblems or crevices and trim.

**Accumulator** · 10-05-2010, 10:04 AM

Originally Posted by Rob Tomlin

I completely agree with you on that issue.. You have be careful not to get any around emblems or crevices and trim.

And the PPF seams that are all over my Yukon XLD

By the fourth or fifth layer I was, uhm...expressing displeasure. A bit of gentle rub-rub-rub with a FK425-damp MF worked OK except where I got the FK1000P on just a little too thick, but sheesh, I`m Mr. Ultra-thin-application so it`s not like I was just slopping it on.