If it's the original paint then it's probably a single stage paint and should be very easy to work on unless it's white as explained here,
The Lesson White Paint Teaches Us
If it is a colored paint, that is anything besides white and if it is a single stage paint then you're going to want to use some kind of polish that will revive and bring out the full richness of color as just compounding and waxing won't tend to do this as well as using a polish with some kind of oil in it.
This is one of the most dramatic before and after details I've been involved with, I didn't do the entire thing as it was an extreme makeover at Megs Garage and for these I would usually be more or less the team leader and help others learn how to restore antique paint or learn how to work by hand or machine and such was the case with this car twice.
Before
The above Mercedes-Benz has sat out in the SoCal sun for over a year since losing it's covered garage parking space to antique furniture. We don't know what it looked like before it was moved outside but since that time, as you can see by the areas of the finish that have turned white, the finish has greatly deteriorated through oxidation. This is a single stage paint.
Here's the finish after
only washing the car with a Meguiar's car wash soap.
It's already looking much better. Remember, Meguiar's car washes are
non-detergent, they will safely clean a car without stripping and dulling the finish. They also contain conditioning ingredients to help maintain your car's finish.
After washing, the finish on this Mercedes-Benz is
thoroughly clean, perfectly prepared for the next steps in the 5-Step Paint Care Cycle. Best of all, we washed and cleaned this car without using a harsh dish washing detergents like so many people on other discussion forums are always recommending. In fact, as dry and oxidized as this paint is, washing this neglected single stage paint with a strong detergent soap would only act to further dull and dry the paint out. Avoid the dish washing soap when washing your pride and joy because it's
working backwards in the paint polishing process assuming your goal is to create a beautiful finish.
After washing this Mercedes-Benz we
Meguiarized it!
After 
My biggest concern when taking on jobs like the one you have is
"How many people have gone before me and what have they used"
In other words, how much paint have all the people who have detailed this car since 1982 removed?
So be very careful on edges and high points and all the top surfaces where some "bubba" can easily stand and run a rotary buffer for no good reason. That is, usually the tops of fenders, the hood and the trunk lid will get buffed more often because it's so easy to stand next to the car and buff on these panels whereas for the doors and sides of the fenders you either sit your but on the ground, (that's no fun), or bend over or kneel down, get the idea?
I usually look at all the corners of things like the rear portions of the hood and look for burn-through spots and if discovered, show the owner, so he know and also so he knows you didn't do it.
Even take a picture of burnt through areas.
Do a Test Spot, that is dial-in a system that works perfect and then duplicate that process over the rest of the car.
And... have fun!
My favorite paint to polish is original and single stage paints and it's becoming more and more rare to get to do this kind of work.
So have fun and don't worry about the pigment coming off the car and onto your buffing pads and microfibers, it's normal and even if it stains your microfibers, after you wash them they will still work just fine.
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