Ooops.....

[Anthony A]

What did they do to repair it? Touch up the spot or repaint the panel or repaint the panel and adjoining panel?

[Mikeyc]

Glad to see you got that fixed.

In the end, the cause of the paint burn was likely your use of the PC with SSR 2.5 and orange pad. As Anthony pointed out there's only so much paint on a panel and cutting pads and abrasive polishes will remove that paint even with a PC. It's not easy to remove all the paint at once with these tools, but they do remove paint each time you use them and that's how they're meant to work.

However, there could have been contributing factors. For instance, many cars arrive at dealerships slightly damaged during transit from the factory. Many of these cars are re-painted, wet sanded, or compounded and then sold without any notification of the work. It's quite possible someone else caused the paint to be thin in that spot and you just burned right through what little paint was left.

I wouldn't let this scare you away from machine polishing. Overall, the PC is a rather safe tool to use and SSR2.5 is a good, safe polish. Maybe you could add a paint thickness meter to your detailing arsenal though.

[RedLight_Si]

Originally Posted by Anthony A

What did they do to repair it? Touch up the spot or repaint the panel or repaint the panel and adjoining panel?

I believe he sanded the area(maybe the whole fender) and then painted it. It looks like they went over the fender with a buffer after it was finished because there is marring/swirls in the fender and a little part of the door and hood.

[jaybs02]

How long did the say before you could wax or seal it?

P.S.
Glad to see you that repaired

"J"

[RedLight_Si]

Originally Posted by Mikeyc

Glad to see you got that fixed.

In the end, the cause of the paint burn was likely your use of the PC with SSR 2.5 and orange pad. As Anthony pointed out there's only so much paint on a panel and cutting pads and abrasive polishes will remove that paint even with a PC. It's not easy to remove all the paint at once with these tools, but they do remove paint each time you use them and that's how they're meant to work.

However, there could have been contributing factors. For instance, many cars arrive at dealerships slightly damaged during transit from the factory. Many of these cars are re-painted, wet sanded, or compounded and then sold without any notification of the work. It's quite possible someone else caused the paint to be thin in that spot and you just burned right through what little paint was left.

I wouldn't let this scare you away from machine polishing. Overall, the PC is a rather safe tool to use and SSR2.5 is a good, safe polish. Maybe you could add a paint thickness meter to your detailing arsenal though.

Looks like I might have to do some machine polishing in the future to remove the marring/swirls left after the repaint or pay someone to do it. If I do it myself though,this time I will be using a finishing pad and some Menzerna CeramiClear PO106FF. What do you think? Where do I get one of these paint thickness meters?

[RedLight_Si]

Originally Posted by jaybs95

How long did the say before you could wax or seal it?

P.S.
Glad to see you that repaired

"J"

He said about three weeks. He said it was ok to wash it . I will need to do this as soon as possible because whoever washed it afterwards left all kinds of water spots and steaks all over the car. I had a few coats of Natty Blue on it,hopefully thats enough to prevent them from setting on the paint.

[Mikeyc]

Originally Posted by RedLight_Si

He said about three weeks. He said it was ok to wash it . I will need to do this as soon as possible because whoever washed it afterwards left all kinds of water spots and steaks all over the car. I had a few coats of Natty Blue on it,hopefully thats enough to prevent them from setting on the paint.

Whatever wax you had on that fender is LONG GONE since it was repainted. I've never heard of waiting to wash after a re-paint. That's kind of new advice to me. I would wait a few months for the paint to set before trying to polish out those defects the body shop put in the paint. It's just pretty tricky IMO to buff soft paint like that.

[GregCavi]

Good to see that you got it fixed. ON the issue of a paint thickness guage, I wouldnt waste your money on that. I think they are usually about 800 bucks. Just make sure not to do to aggresive polishing all the time. remember, least abrasive product first!

Greg

[Mikeyc]

Originally Posted by GregCavi

Good to see that you got it fixed. ON the issue of a paint thickness guage, I wouldnt waste your money on that. I think they are usually about 800 bucks. Just make sure not to do to aggresive polishing all the time. remember, least abrasive product first!

Greg

Is that how much they are? I had no idea. I just thought I would throw it out there as a suggestion. After I thought about it I felt he would have to know how thick his paint is supposed to be for the gauge to be helpful.

Anyway, I still believe that the paint was thin before he started on this particular buffing experience.

[RedLight_Si]

Originally Posted by Mikeyc

Anyway, I still believe that the paint was thin before he started on this particular buffing experience.

Chances are, you are right. About a week after I bought my car, I noticed a roughness in the paint on the curved in part of the fender right before the mirror on both sides of the car,so I brought it back to the dealership. If I remember correctly, the guy said he buffed it with a light compound. Since he was working in that area, there is definetly a good chance that he went over that curved edge where the paint did come off.

[Anthony A]

Originally Posted by Mikeyc

I've never heard of waiting to wash after a re-paint. That's kind of new advice to me.

Mike, he didn't say that. He said it was OK to wash it but to wait 3 weeks to wax.

[Anthony A]

Originally Posted by RedLight_Si

I believe he sanded the area(maybe the whole fender) and then painted it. It looks like they went over the fender with a buffer after it was finished because there is marring/swirls in the fender and a little part of the door and hood.

They didn't blend it with the adjoining panels? Most places I know will paint the area and the panels beside it to blend the color match. In your case I would think they would have did the door and maybe the hood to.

[Mikeyc]

Originally Posted by Anthony A

Mike, he didn't say that. He said it was OK to wash it but to wait 3 weeks to wax.

Oops! I guess I was reading that post a little too quick.