tell them you were polishing it with a pc. most good body shop workers know a pc is not strong enough to go through good paint. they should have a thickness gauge that they can compare the paint to to check if it is thinner in some areas than it should be. if you do your service there, and make enough of a concern about, they should take care of it for you.
Thats the thing, I dont really do my service there anymore. I dont really care for the service department where I bought my car. I guess I can give it a try. Maybe I should call corporate? They will probably just tell me to take it back to the dealership anyway.
Oh dear... all good advice on here though. I would add that I have always found it best to start as gentle as possible and then get more aggressive if needs be. Folks laugh at me, but I always reach for SSR1 via white polishing pad on new cars whose paint I am unsure about. If it's not up to the job I then go down to SSR2.5 via white polishing pad. Final option is the cutting pad, and I still hate using them. I've been amazed at what you can get out with SSR1/2.5 via polishing pad at speeds 5-6 when you take your time. If your confidence with the PC has been dented take some time out with the SSR1 via a polishing pad - you'll soon feel confident again. :yes:
I actually started out using the SSR1 with a white polishing pad. I didnt really like how it was going so I stepped it up to the SSR2.5 with an orange cutting pad. That was the big mistake. I should of used the SSR2.5 with a white pad, like you said. I only have one though and I already used the SSR1 with it. Need to get some more. I will only stick with a white polishing pad from now on.
warranty's will cover defect's in the paint clearcoat failure, pealing paint etc and in most case's many of thier cars will have the same problem but in this case lets say their was a defect, once somebody looks at the paint and see this happend when being detailed there's no way there gonna except responseability, human error not paint failure. had he brought the car to have it detailed and picked it up in that condition then he would have a case. i hope things work out for you keep us posted.
continue on with the pc don't give up. fwiw : by the way in one of my old threads budman3 suggests to use a polishing pad when using pbs swirl removers.
Thanks. budman3 actually responded to one my recent posts before this all happened suggesting all that I would need was a polishing pad with the SSR1 and SSR2.5. I guess I should have listened.
This is an operator error -not a defective paint job.
If you run your pads on the edges they will heat your paint, regardless of the polisher that you are using. Some do it quicker than others (i.e rotary vs. PC). -BUT- they will ALL HEAT PAINT when you run them on the pad edge.
Cutting pads and cutting products level your clear coat/paint, period. They should be used as an exception, not every time that you polish your car.
I have seen the PC burn paint first hand, The operator was trying to remove a scratch using an orange pad, on an angle. I've made mistakes too. Think of it as a learning experience, it's not the end of the world. Just be glad that you were working on your car vs. a customers. Re-spraying a fender should cost somewhere between $200-300.
The PC is a wonderful tool, but at the same time, it's a machine and can cause damage if used improperly.
-Keep your pads flat.
-Start out using the least aggressive pad/chemical
-Keep the polisher moving (i.e. -don't sit on one spot for any period of time)
Do you think the pads were part of the problem? I mean I know I shouldnt have used the orange pad, but the pads are the CP(Constant Pressure) kind and are concave without any pressure of them. Do you think maybe if I wasnt applying enough pressure that could do some damage? Here are some pics of the orange pad.
I think that there wasn't one thing that went wrong. It seems like a few different things happened which resulted with this unfortunate incident such as the cutting pad, the paint itself maybe, the curved panel, inexperience, tempature, etc. I personal though that it was near impossible, as you amoung others thought, to harm paint with a PC. Now I wonder if there is any way to minimize the look? I haven't delt with burnt paint before with the PC or Rotary so I'm no good in that category. I've practiced with SSR3 and a wool pad on a spare hood to remove sanding marks and didn't have any affects like this. I wouldn't let this get your hopes up... easier for me to say because I don't have to stand with the paint looking bad... but from the pics it looks like you did a good job of getting rid of the rest of the swirls and hope they're gone for a while.
"Whether you think you can or think you can't - you are right " -Henry Ford
Location: Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada
Re: Ooops..... -
11-19-2005, 06:24 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedLight_Si
How long would you consider paint to be new?
I don't know really. I'm increasingly disappointed in the dropping quality of paint. The bumpers on Nissans, Suburus and Kias are crap. GM's orange peel is getting on my nerves. I'd just hate to see Honda on that list. Ask them what they think.
I think that there wasn't one thing that went wrong. It seems like a few different things happened which resulted with this unfortunate incident such as the cutting pad, the paint itself maybe, the curved panel, inexperience, tempature, etc. I personal though that it was near impossible, as you amoung others thought, to harm paint with a PC. Now I wonder if there is any way to minimize the look? I haven't delt with burnt paint before with the PC or Rotary so I'm no good in that category. I've practiced with SSR3 and a wool pad on a spare hood to remove sanding marks and didn't have any affects like this. I wouldn't let this get your hopes up... easier for me to say because I don't have to stand with the paint looking bad... but from the pics it looks like you did a good job of getting rid of the rest of the swirls and hope they're gone for a while.
i agree for whatever reason maybe the paint was a little softer and that edge being somewhat rounded and a combination of other things. you did a nice job and it was something that happend i think you should chulk it up as exp and have it repaired when you can afford it, again the rest of the car looks nice.
First lets get something straight right now, you MOST CERTAINLY CAN BURN THROUGH PAINT WITH A PC. Base coat clear coat or single stage. I have done it and seen others do it several times. It isn't as easy as doing it with a rotary but you can and will if you are not careful.
One of the biggest misinformations on these detailing sites is that a PC can't correct paint. Well I do it all the time and judging by the before and after pics posted on here so do many others.How do you think a PC corrects paint? It removes it. It abrades the paint and levels it. How many times do you think you can do this? Eventually you wear through. How many times you can abrade paint before you wear through depends on how thick the paint is. That depends on if it's factory paint, repaint, location on the car, how many times previously it was polished, etc. It also depends on how aggressive you get. A cutting pad with a compound on 6 with pressure and repeated applications is pretty aggressive. Ask my door how I know that.
The bottom line is you only have so much paint and when it's gone it is gone, time for a repaint. This is why you use the least aggressive method to do the job and then you use anal washing and drying techniques and tools to maintain the finish as defect free as possible. The less you have to level the paint the better.
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