Wow thats crazy!! From what you told us its almost impossible to burn the paint . NOw you just have to convince the company of yoru car that. Good luck is all i can say. Car dealers are hard people to work with and they will likely try to stick the blame on you. Dont give up on the pc and realy fight for what you deserve which sounds like a new repaint.
wait a second here, i need some more info on this . What year is the car ?
Its a 2003.
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Originally Posted by Hawaiianelement
Has it always been waxed on a regular basis?
Yes, it almost always has had layer of protection on it.
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Originally Posted by Hawaiianelement
Is this a used car?
I am the original owner.
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Originally Posted by Hawaiianelement
IMHO I don't think its your fault Si . It would take alot of effort to go thru clear and then the paint without you purposely trying really hard to do that . I'm thinking that the paint was real thin on top of the fender from factory or from previuos detailers.
Im starting to think it wasnt my fault either. However, I have polished it twice before,very recently at that, with Zaino Z:PC with an LC orange pad and the stock white pad. Im in question as to how much of the clear coat is left. I dont want to lose it. The only other time that Im aware of someone working the paint was the dealership's body shop not long after I bought it. There was a rough spot in the fenders (right next to the mirrors). The guy I believe said he used a light polish/compound.
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Originally Posted by Hawaiianelement
Pls don't let this freak you out and give up the PC..
Im trying not to, but I do freak out really easy,especially when it comes to my car.
You shouldn't give up machine polishing, it's still the most effective way of doing things. Only one other time have I seen a PC do damage like this (some genius over at Autopia sat there at speed 6 with a yellow LC pad and diamond cut for 20-30 minutes while pushing down on the PC, went right through that paint). If you weren't being aggressive with your PC (and it doesn't sound like you were) than this is a paint defect, the paint at that point may have been cured incorrectly and was left much softer than the surrounding paint. If it's a factory original spray then you are entitled a respray on the offending fender.
I am out of warranty and the car is about 2.5 years old. It would probably be very difficult proving that it wasnt my fault. How do you think I should go about trying to prove fault on the factory? The car seems to have a problem with paint chips also. My hood and front bumper are full of them.
AHA!!! now we have more information. I think that rock chips is a common problem and would also be an environmental issue as you could not prove you don't drive in an area where lots of stones get kicked up during normal driving. On the other hand if the dealer has records of doing some work on your vehicle on that panel, and it turns out they caused the problem, it doesn't matter how long it's been. Take it back to the dealer's body shop again and show them the spot... :yes:
I can't see how that happened. Have you always had the car? If not, I would guess someone has wetsanded there before and reduced the clear. Is there a texture?
Yea, I have always had it. When say texture,do you mean like an orange peel sort of thing? If so,im not sure about that particular spot. Id have to check more closely. The whole rest of the car though, I know seems to have an orange peel effect.
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Originally Posted by PEI Detail
I would go to a detail shop and ask them to recommend a painter. I've only been in this town 5 months, and I know from customer testimony and dealers which refinishers do what kind of job. I can find a cheap guy that does quality stuff, a mid-range shop that can go mild or spicy, or a top dollar shop. I'm sure a local detailer can do the same and let you know if there are other options.
I might go back to the dealership first and see what they will do for me, if anything at all.
most car companies have a paint warranty that lasts alot longe than service warranty. i work at a dealer, and that shouldn't happen on a three year old car. take it back and see if they will help you out.
Location: Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada
Re: Ooops..... -
11-17-2005, 10:35 PM
Redlight, I meant texture like rough. You'd be amazed how gummy burnt compound can be, yet with some hand buffing it comes off. Or if it is rough, different than the paint around it, it may be you are into base or primer.
most car companies have a paint warranty that lasts alot longe than service warranty. i work at a dealer, and that shouldn't happen on a three year old car. take it back and see if they will help you out.
What do you think I should say? I think the moment I mention the word "buffer", its all over.
Redlight, I meant texture like rough. You'd be amazed how gummy burnt compound can be, yet with some hand buffing it comes off. Or if it is rough, different than the paint around it, it may be you are into base or primer.
It seems to be quite smooth, but Ill check again. I would be so happy if it was burnt compound,but something tells that it isnt.
tell them you were polishing it with a pc. most good body shop workers know a pc is not strong enough to go through good paint. they should have a thickness gauge that they can compare the paint to to check if it is thinner in some areas than it should be. if you do your service there, and make enough of a concern about, they should take care of it for you.
Oh dear... all good advice on here though. I would add that I have always found it best to start as gentle as possible and then get more aggressive if needs be. Folks laugh at me, but I always reach for SSR1 via white polishing pad on new cars whose paint I am unsure about. If it's not up to the job I then go down to SSR2.5 via white polishing pad. Final option is the cutting pad, and I still hate using them. I've been amazed at what you can get out with SSR1/2.5 via polishing pad at speeds 5-6 when you take your time. If your confidence with the PC has been dented take some time out with the SSR1 via a polishing pad - you'll soon feel confident again. :yes:
most car companies have a paint warranty that lasts alot longe than service warranty. i work at a dealer, and that shouldn't happen on a three year old car. take it back and see if they will help you out.
warranty's will cover defect's in the paint clearcoat failure, pealing paint etc and in most case's many of thier cars will have the same problem but in this case lets say their was a defect, once somebody looks at the paint and see this happend when being detailed there's no way there gonna except responseability, human error not paint failure. had he brought the car to have it detailed and picked it up in that condition then he would have a case. i hope things work out for you keep us posted.
continue on with the pc don't give up. fwiw : by the way in one of my old threads budman3 suggests to use a polishing pad when using pbs swirl removers.
This is an operator error -not a defective paint job.
If you run your pads on the edges they will heat your paint, regardless of the polisher that you are using. Some do it quicker than others (i.e rotary vs. PC). -BUT- they will ALL HEAT PAINT when you run them on the pad edge.
Cutting pads and cutting products level your clear coat/paint, period. They should be used as an exception, not every time that you polish your car.
I have seen the PC burn paint first hand, The operator was trying to remove a scratch using an orange pad, on an angle. I've made mistakes too. Think of it as a learning experience, it's not the end of the world. Just be glad that you were working on your car vs. a customers. Re-spraying a fender should cost somewhere between $200-300.
The PC is a wonderful tool, but at the same time, it's a machine and can cause damage if used improperly.
-Keep your pads flat.
-Start out using the least aggressive pad/chemical
-Keep the polisher moving (i.e. -don't sit on one spot for any period of time)
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